5 countries, 5,000nm and 6 months later, we returned to Opua NZ on 28th November with so many memories and experiences from our first season as live-aboard Blue Nomad cruisers in the south-west Pacific. After the difficult passage down from Fiji last year, we weren’t sure if passage-making was really going to be our thing, but we had to give it a go. After all, this was part of the dream (or so we thought). The first leg from NZ to Tonga was no better – thank goodness for good friend Jim on board as an experienced crew member to help us through it. Shorter passages through the Tongan island groups, then north to Samoa, west to Fiji, Vanuatu and New Caledonia all helped increase our confidence and to a lesser degree our appreciation of passage-making. They were also opportunities to finesse and test the polars in Predict Wind weather routing, giving us a more accurate picture of what we were likely to face if the various forecasts were to be believed.
Leaving New Caledonia for New Zealand for the final leg was the next big test; a longer passage again of 900nm and weather forecasts that just did not want to cooperate. In the end after 3 weeks of waiting we took a window which was less than ideal, but with a more informed understanding of what would be involved. 
The forecast was for steady 15-20kn easterlies for the duration of the passage, with stronger winds in the middle section of the predicted passage time of 6-7 days. Which turned out to be exactly what we got; 6.5 days of a single port tack in 18-20 knots with an apparent wind angle of 30-40 degrees for the whole trip, making 20-40 degrees leeway (she’s a catamaran, after all). The seas weren’t too bad; about 2.5-3m at worst during the middle section, when we saw 25-30knots for about 24 hours. But ask anyone if they want to spend a week sailing a catamaran to windward in the open ocean and the answer (from anyone who understand the question) would generally be a resounding ‘No way!’. So although it wasn’t our choice of wind direction, we were actually pretty pleased with the boat’s performance, averaging 5.5kn relatively comfortably with very little motoring required.
Sighting North Cape as we approached New Zealand was certainly a welcome moment, and tying up at Q-dock in Opua at 2:00am Tuesday morning to finally complete the circuit gave us a huge sense of satisfaction with goals achieved for the year. Now we have 6 months to enjoy New Zealand’s stunning Northland scenery over summer while we contemplate the agenda for next year. We know now that we can do passages; the question we now have to answer for ourselves is whether we want to, and if so how much in one year. I suspect that if we do head north to chase the sun again next winter it will be with a reduced itinerary, spending more time in a given country. For the moment, the post-passage jobs of removing the salt layer from everything and airing the boat will have to wait; we’ve arrived just in time for me to clear customs & immigration, have a hearty breakfast and hot shower, then hire a car and get to Auckland in time to deliver a conference presentation first thing on Wednesday morning. Oh for a kind fairy who would have the boat sparkling for us when we return on Wednesday evening!
We did have one essential stop to make on the way, at Kawakawa Cemetary to visit the new headstone that Richard’s siblings had organised for their parents’ grave. We’d missed the unveiling ceremony whilst at sea; we were bitterly disappointed as we’d planned for months to be there. The headstone is beautiful; a really fitting tribute for Flo and Frank. While we were there we also found the plaque for Richard’s grandfather in the military section of the cemetary.
The conference presentation was perhaps not my best ever performance (a touch under-rehearsed) but the day was useful for the contacts made and renewed in the Education/Linguistics field. We returned in the evening to a still-dirty boat (very sad, no kind fairies in Opua Marina, or maybe we didn’t wish loudly enough), but early enough to take the hire car to Russell for the long-dreamed of eye-fillet steak. The meal was glorious and even worth the long drive around the back way to return to Opua when we missed the last ferry home from Okiato. The next morning brought a double-dose of happiness, with a trip to Ngawha Hot Springs, soaking away all the stress and tension of the pre-passage planning, the 7 days of windward bridge deck slamming and the rush of the post-passage agenda. So I was relaxed, but again not necessarily as prepared as I usually am for the webinar in the evening. The three loads of washing are on in the laundromat, Richard’s gone shopping to replace the confiscated fresh food supplies (gotta give it Biosecurity – they do a great job) and I’ll start refilling water tanks and scrubbing down the boat… after a latte!
See the OziYoti YouTube video of the circuit here – subscribe for updates!
Ode to Passages on the Open Ocean
(Dedicated to Daddy Mac who always has a cheeky poem for every occasion)
The sun is shining happily
The sky’s a delightful blue
My urine’s back to yellow
And I’ve finally had a poo
The reefs were shaken out at dawn,
She’s proudly under full sail
The boat speed’s down but cheer is up
We’ve sent a satellite mail
After two days of gale
And pounding seas
It’s about bloody time
The conditions did ease
A sticky, salty residue
Coats everything I touch
I’d love a long hot shower…
Is that a bit too much?
A strange man appeared on board this morn,
He really looks quite weird
Though I ‘spose it could be possible
Darling hubby’s behind the beard
The first day we moaned
About the noise of the donk
Then for two days we groaned
That we couldn’t touch the plonk
Three more days to Opua
We’re just making the lay
Hoping we won’t get headed
But that always seems the way
No sooner did we jump for joy
That we were right on track
Another squall rose quick and vicious
To blow us towards Norfolk and back
Some messy chop at Maria Ridge
Then a shout as we spied North Cape
For hours we waited and grew frustrated;
As the angle did never change shape.
After customs and formalities
The thing I want the most
Is a big juicy steak
And a glass with which to toast
Our trusty floating caravan
For weathering the storm
Keeping us all dry and safe
And performing in fine form
After four thousand miles
In the six months since May
That box has surely been ticked
We could hang up our ePirb
And declare it a day
Without feeling that we’d been licked
With warm possum socks
And a soft snuggly doona
Surely life couldn’t be that bad
Living on board
In Opua for winter
There must be some warmth to be had?
But cruising’s like child birth
The pain soon forgot
The joys remembered too well
The storms seem less violent
Next year will be different
Surely no need for quell?
So when winter comes calling
With temperatures falling
No doubt we’ll throw in our lot
With blue nomads our friends
We’ll sail north-east again
For days both balmy and hot
So service the motors,
Replace all the hatch seals
Make sure we are category one,
We’re not done yet,
And let’s not forget
That cruising is meant to be fun!
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